stock here: how true this is. I had roomates until almost 30 years old, trying to save enough money to own a few properties and have a promising future. It worked.
Cuban, with 3.5M views, replies to @tek_sauce, who pushes gaming, but also correctly identifies the Gaza genocide on children…..see bottom.
Using the **135-ft reference line in your image as the scale**, this is a very large single-story footprint. My rough take from the roof outline is **about 7,500–9,000 ft²**, with **~8,200 ft²** a reasonable working estimate. The roof surface area is higher—probably **~10,000–12,000 ft²** once the Monier slopes are included. On the attic fans: I agree the attic is probably an enormous heat source, but I would **not assume six fans automatically produces a massive AC savings**. The critical detail you gave is actually **drywall ceiling with essentially no insulation**. In Portlock, with darkish concrete tile, intense sun, and a huge roof, the attic can easily spend afternoons around **120–140°F**, possibly higher in stagnant sections. With bare drywall beneath that, the ceiling itself becomes a giant radiant/conductive heating panel. Six solar attic fans could make a meaningful difference **if they have enough intake air**. For an ~8,000 ft² footprint, I would be thinking in terms of perhaps **3,000–5,000 CFM total effective ventilation**, distributed across the separate roof/attic sections. Six decent units at nominal ~700–1,000 CFM each sounds reasonable on paper—but those ratings collapse if the soffit/intake area is inadequate. The bigger issue is **make-up air**. If those six fans pull 4,000 CFM but there isn’t several thousand square inches of effective soffit/intake opening, they can depressurize the attic and start sucking cooled house air through can lights, wall tops, plumbing penetrations, access hatches, etc. In that case the AC savings can be disappointing. For this house, I’d rank the improvements: 1. **Air-seal the ceiling plane** as much as practical. 2. **Add insulation over the drywall** — even R-19 would be a dramatic improvement over essentially R-0/R-1; R-30+ would be better. 3. Make sure there is **large, unobstructed low intake ventilation**. 4. Then add **multiple high-point solar exhaust fans**, spread around the distinct attic volumes rather than concentrating them. 5. A **radiant barrier** below the roof deck could also be very effective in this climate, particularly with the Monier tile. And that **$900/month bill** is completely believable for an ~8,000 ft² uninsulated single-story house with central AC. At Hawaiian electricity rates, that’s only on the order of **2,000–2,500 kWh/month**, depending on his tariff. If his cooling is responsible for, say, **1,200–1,600 kWh/month**, I could see properly designed attic ventilation reducing AC consumption perhaps **10–20%**, possibly more in this unusually bad no-insulation situation. But **adding insulation would likely dwarf the fan-only savings**. For a sales/proposal approach, I’d probably tell him: > **“Your attic is approximately 8,000 square feet and sits directly over uninsulated drywall. We recommend six distributed solar attic ventilators, subject to verifying adequate attic intake ventilation. This should substantially reduce attic temperature and ceiling heat gain, although adding attic insulation would provide an even larger reduction in air-conditioning load.”** I would **absolutely crawl/inspect this attic before specifying the six fans**, mainly to determine whether this enormous roof is actually one connected attic or 4–6 isolated attic volumes. Looking at those hips and valleys, I strongly suspect it is compartmentalized, and that changes where the six fans need to go.Finally some honest reporting on Gaza
— tek_sauce (@tek_sauce) March 9, 2024